GBP 2, Sign up for Shop newsletter. Add us to your favourite sellers. Cigarette Holders. Pipe Stands. Mobile Phone Stands. Shop Home. About Us. Contact Us. Returns Policy. Different types of mouthpieces. Please look at the pictures. Descriptions and dimensions of individual mouthpieces below. Stem no Tenon diameter inside : 3mm. Lenght does not include tenon. Tenon diameter inside : 9mm. Leght: 80mm. Stem diameter: 16mm. Tenon diameter outside : 8mm. Tenon diameter inside : 4.
Length: mm. Tenon diameter inside : 4mm.A printed catalog is not available for reasons that J H Lowe has an inventory and prices that are always changing up or down and stock that's in and out. Always reference the Web pages before ordering. You can print out any pages for your personal use when away from a computer:. Use these as reference tables while making your bit selection. After you familiarize yourself with the Legend table, select the type of bits you are looking to order from the bars on the left.
Please select from the bars on the left to select the types of items we can provide. A summary of what's contained in each section is listed below.
Adjustable Tenon Turning Tool & Parts
Please order by catalog number and specify the desired color s. Substitutions will be made for out of stock styles or colors with the next best choice. The Molded Lucite Bit table below is organized in order by style, size and length.
Please order by catalog number. Bakelite bits are used primarily on Meerschaum pipes and usually have no tenons. To mount these, a Push-Pull connector set is the best fitting and most commonly used. The Bakelite Bit tables below are organized in order by shape style, size, length and cost. Color is Brownish Red. These have a have a rough root surface on one edge that make them attractive for freehand style pipes.
Use these for tamps, extensions, handles, or for practicing drilling. You'll take a chance using these for a Pipe shape that may not work out. Use these for tamps, extensions, handles, or for practice drilling.
Making a Pipe (Part 2): the Stem
All of the above buffs are Open Hole Buffs or Bolted by request. Our New Shaping Disc is a 7" diameter thick rubber backed disc with a 36 grit sanding disc used to shape off briar quickly. The 7" Shaping Disc screws into our All-Purpose Arbor that is mounted to a work arbor from a motor shaft.
It is also designed to screw onto one of our threaded work arbors that can be mounted on a shaft of a motor with out having to use our All-Purpose Arbor. We also make a drill chuck arbor that will allow the tool to be mounted into a drill chuck for many other sanding and shaping purposes. It can be used from RPM. I use mine at around RPM.
A 36 Grit Disc is very aggressive and will work very fast. No more fussing with an Allen wrench to move the cutting arm. Now you just spin an adjusting ring and the arm moves in or out from a zero cut for facing, to the biggest tenon cut you'll ever need to cut.
A guide pin is used to support the tenon while cutting. The extra long cutting arm pictured is no longer available as a separate option. The Cutting arm is now a standard longer feature than the original ones made years ago. The was the first Tenon Cutter developed for the pipe repairman and the pipe maker by Howard Lowenstein for the J.
Lowe Co. It can be designed to fit on a work arbor from the shaft of a motor, a drill press, or a lathe head for stem cutting. The Standard Lowe's Tenon Cutter uses an adjusting ring for the cutting arm movement.
Spinning the ring will simply move the arm in or out. A guide pin is used in the stem to support it while the tenon is being cut.Log in. Forums New posts Search forums. Retailer Directory. Radio Show. Pipe Shows.
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Search on Site Search Search. Categories Ask G. Recent Posts. Status Not open for further replies. Jun 4, 63 2. Anyone have ideas to correct offset stems because of the threads. I guess someone put too much torque on it. I always run into this with estate pipes. I have ignored some nice little purchases due to he stem not lining up. I have fixed a few by taking the tenon and forcing it back but that doesn't always work Oct 6, 3, 5.
Try heating the stem before you crank on it, I use a hair dryer. Not all screw in stems are put together the same way. Grabow Ajustomatics are not threaded into the stem,the tenon is made to have a friction fit. Ajustomatics can be free up usually by heating the tenon for a few seconds with a lighter or match and then screw into shank and turn clockwise.
They are made to do that. Sometimes requires heating times. Jan 4, 1. I'm with ejames. I have a willard that had that issue and I did the same and it worked just fine.I'm trying to understand something.
I'm under the impression that a pipe's stem and tenon are cut from one piece of rod, but I guess maybe I'm wrong? When a pipe is made Is this right?How I make a smoking pipe
Thanks, Milan. There are two ways to do it. The stem can have an integral tenon, in which case the tenon is turned down to size from the stock that the tenon is made from. Or the stem can have a tenon inserted. In this case most pipe makers use a material by the trade name of Derlin. This material is very dimensionally stable and also has some self lubricating properties which give the stem a nice smooth feel when it is inserted into the stemmel.
Both methods are used by high end pipe makers. So some makers will fabricate their own tenons While others buy prefabricated tenons. I've really begun to wonder about the amount of epoxy that is being applied to pipes. I mean there must be a significant amount if your inserting a tenon into the stem and applying inlayed materials like ivory, horn, exotic woods, etc?
I understand that delrin makes for an easy to remove stem, but I'm not sure how I feel about all the glue being used? I guess I prefer a pipe that has a stem and tenon fabricated as one piece, but I'm not sure? In the case of delrin, there should be virtually no contact between the smoker, the smoke and glue. I make pipe stems with both types of tenons. I like the feel of a delrin tenon and the strength, it's extremely durablebut a good integral tenon will be smooth too.
I think it mostly comes down to personal preference. Just for your reference, most of the carvers I know the ones that use delrin make their tenons from long pieces of delrin rod 3' lengths. There are quite a few steps in making a proper tenon, so the pre-made versions don't really save you much.Log in. Forums New posts Search forums.
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Search on Site Search Search. Categories Ask G. Recent Posts. Jul 1, 9. I am getting a little bit ahead here because they are still in the mail but I went on Ebay and bought a bunch of assorted, estate stumels and an assorted bunch of premolded, vulcanite stems.The nomenclature of this Nibs caught my eye it was well stamped, His Nibs over Imported Briar, the chamber held an uneven cake, the rim had a little build up and a scorched area towards the shank.
The stem was in rough shape broken off dead center at the bit. I reamed back the cake with the PipNet and Castleford reamers, starting with the Castlefords smallest attachment, then the PipNets smallest and finally back to the Castleford and its second smallest attachment bring the chamber back to briar, the chamber was free of imperfections. I decided to re-stem rather then rebuild, the stem itself was an inch and three quarters long and the bit was missing a 6 mm section, so cutting and rebuilding the button was out of the question.
I set the stummel aside to dry and moved to cutting the replacement stem. I slid the stem onto the guide pin and adjusted the cutter set screw to make my first pass, removing a couple millimeters of material.
I now measured the stock stem for the original length and using a coping saw I cut a few millimeters off the new tenon. Using the stock stem for measurements I made another pass on the tenon cutter until I had a tenon length match, I popped the stock stem onto the tenon cutter and set the cutter to match the tapered end of the stock tenon, I now slid the replacement stem onto the guide pin and cut the taper into the tenon.
Now I slid the stock stem back onto the guide pin and set my cutter to the thickness of the stock tenon, backing it off a bit so my cut of the replacement tenon would not be an exact fit.
The final snug fit between tenon and mortise would be achieved by removing the tenon material with and grit sandpaper wet. You have to take your time here forcing the tenon into the mortise could result in a cracked shank or you risk snapping the tenon. Once I achieved a snug fit between tenon and mortise and with the stem face flush with the stummel, I taped off the shank with painters tape to keep my abrasive sanding from damaging the stummel.
Using a rotary sanding bit I removed the bulk of the stem material, leaving a step up from shank to stem. I now sanded the stem with the finer grits of sandpaper.
Once I have achieved the stem and button shape I was looking for I could move to my final sanding. At this point a very, very small step up from shank to stem still remains. Before my final fit and sanding of the stem I shaped and widened the slot using a slot funneling tool and needle files. This is the most time consuming step, using a divider between shank and stem I sanded the stem with sandpaper wet, sanding until the step up between shank and stem no longer exists.
With the fit between shank and stem flush and smooth, I ran the stem with divider still in place through the various grits of micro-mesh wet and dry. Before polishing the stem with the remaining micro-mesh pads I bent the stem slightly using a Bic lighter, by brushing the stem lightly with the flame and bending it over a nail polish bottle.
With a smooth fit and finish and the slight bend I was looking for I polished the stem with the remaining micro-mesh pads and dry.
Stumels and stems for practice
With the stem complete it was time to finish the stummel, I applied Method Wood For Good Polish to the rim and left it upside down on a makeup pad for an hour to penetrate the build up. With the build up now softened I removed the debris with Q-Tips and a makeup pad.
After cleaning the rim there were a few knock out dings left behind, using a house hold iron set to medium heat and a damp rag I steamed out the imperfections. I placed a damp rag over the rim and applied the rim flat against the hot iron, I would repeat this process a couple of times to get the results I was looking for. After steaming the rim there were still a few shallow imperfections and a darker area at the back of the rim, using wornand micro-mesh pads I smoothed out and lightened the rim.
Before moving on I gave the stummel a wipe down with Method to remove the fine sanding dust and grime. I finished up the stummel with a few coats carnauba and a spin on the nude wheel. Buffing the stem with blue compound, white diamond and carnauba. Hand buffing the pipe as a whole with a microfiber cloth just before the photos. Now for thirteen bucks your not getting mint conditionsome work would be involved. To my eye the pipe is flawless not an ounce of filler. The stem on the other hand may not be original to the pipe there are no markings of any kind but I have also seen a few examples considered original without the KE stamped on the stem.
As the briar dried it twisted and formed the crack.If you're inclined to make your own pipe stem and have access to a lathe, you're at the right place! Now, if you're coming from my first guide Part 1: The Stummelthere is something I need to mention here before I edit that tutorial to include something that I should have mentioned before: It's easiest not to finish your stummel until you have fit a stem to it In all likelihood, you will want to sand around the mortise opening of your stummel to get the stem fitting just the way you want it.
Of course, you can always go back and sand away from the tung oil if you've already finished your stummel, then re-finish when you're ready; but it's a lot harder if there's a layer of carnauba wax between your sandpaper and the wood. You might be pleased to know that this isn't nearly as time-consuming or labor-intensive as carving out the stummel, although some shaping will be required.
Some history: I made my first pipe out of crabapple in July if you can believe that and had no idea what I was doing. It just happened to work out that the chamber, airway, and mortise I drilled were actually fine. However, I wasn't quite sure how to do a stem since I didn't have access to a lathe at the time. With no other options, I used a little section of a Crape Myrtle stick -- drilled through it and slowly carved it down by hand Yes, I hand carved both the mouth region relatively flat, with a lip at the tip and the tenon from a stick.
But it worked! I somehow tapered the tenon correctly so there wasn't any air leak through the mortise! Still though, what was otherwise a relatively it was too big pretty stummel became something of a monstrosity in light of the crude stem I made.
The takeaway lesson here is this: The stummel is only half the pipe. And if you are going to make your own stem, take your time to do it well. The stem will either add to the beauty of a stummel or detract from it, as I learned firsthand. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Like I did in Part 1, I'll briefly talk about some of the materials to choose from. Most modern pipe stems are made from vulcanized rubber, with the trade name "ebonite. I believe these stems are made directly in a mold i.
Another popular modern material is "lucite," which, after a quick google search, I was surprised to learn is actually just poly methyl-methacrylate PMMA! The same thing they use in orthopedic bone cement. Anyway, lucite can be cast solid and then worked down on a lathe -- and I believe this is how lucite stems are done Way back in the day, pipe stems were made from amber Yes, amber.
Fossilized tree sap. How anyone was patient and skilled enough to shape amber into a pipe stem with archaic technology is beyond me. Having not known I could get lucite rods until literally just now, I've been using two other materials: African Blackwood and "RhinoPlastic" In my honest opinion, there is a night and day difference between the quality of RhinoPlastic blanks and foreign-manufactured generic acrylic acetate It feels stronger, better resists burning, and smells a lot less bad when turning.
If you're familiar with pen turning, then you might already be familiar with RhinoPlastic not to mention, this tutorial will be a breeze for you.